Accessories · Worked in the round
Crochet Bandana Cowl Pattern
By Looplader · Tested row by row · Updated
- Skill
- Easy
- Hook
- 4.0 mm (G/6)
- Yarn
- Light/DK (CYC 3)
- Time
- Two relaxed evenings
This crochet bandana cowl is worked seamlessly from the neck down: first as a simple hdc tube, then with one marked front-center gusset that opens into a soft point at the collarbone. There are no ties, buttons, or back seam to manage; the cowl pulls on over the head.
The fit comes from the neck circumference and the number of gusset rounds. Choose the size by the cowl's finished circumference, then add or remove gusset rounds only after trying it on so the point lands where you want it.
Why you’ll love this pattern
- The neck is one uninterrupted round, so there is no join seam at the back.
- One marked ch-1 space handles all shaping; it is easy to find again on every round.
- The size chart separates neck circumference from point depth, making fit changes predictable.
- A reverse-single-crochet edge gives the point definition without a heavy border.
Instructions
- 1
Make a hdc gauge swatch before beginning. Aim for 16 hdc and 12 rounds = 4 in / 10 cm after wet-blocking or washing it as you plan to treat the finished cowl. A small gauge difference changes whether a pull-on neck will clear the head comfortably.
- 2
Choose small, medium, or large from the size chart. Foundation: ch 80 (small), 88 (medium), or 96 (large). Check that the chain is not twisted, sl st to the first ch to form a ring, and place a marker in that join. Do not pull this join tight; it sits at the back of the neck.
- 3
Rnd 1: ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc in every ch around; sl st to the first hdc. (80, 88, or 96 sts) Move the join marker up to the new round. If the first round is tight or ripples, correct it now rather than trying to hide the problem with the border.
- 4
Rnd 2: ch 2, hdc in every st around; sl st to the first hdc. (80, 88, or 96 sts) Repeat Rnd 2 until you have 7 total neck rounds. The tube should measure about 2 1/4 in / 5.5 cm tall at stated gauge.
- 5
Lay the tube flat with the join marker at the back. Count halfway around to place a second marker at the front center: 40 sts from the join for small, 44 for medium, or 48 for large. This marker marks the point; all later shaping happens here, not at the back join.
- 6
Gusset Rnd 1: ch 2, hdc in each st to the front-center marked st. In that marked st work 2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc; remove the marker and place it in the ch-1 space just made. Hdc in every remaining st, then sl st to the first hdc. (83, 91, or 99 hdc plus 1 ch-1 space) The ch-1 space is the center of the growing point.
- 7
Gusset Rnd 2: ch 2, hdc in each hdc to the marked ch-1 space. Work 2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc in that space, move the marker into the new ch-1 space, hdc in each remaining hdc, and sl st to the first hdc. (86, 94, or 102 hdc plus 1 ch-1 space)
- 8
Repeat Gusset Rnd 2 for 9 more rounds, for 11 total gusset rounds. The stitch count rises by 3 hdc on each gusset round: after 11 rounds it is 113, 121, or 129 hdc plus the marked ch-1 space. Keep the marker in the center space every time; putting the four hdc into a regular stitch makes the point drift sideways.
- 9
Try the cowl on after Gusset Rnd 11. The medium should have a front point about 5 in / 12.5 cm below the neck edge at stated gauge. For a shallower point, stop after 9 or 10 gusset rounds; for a deeper point, continue the same increase round until it reaches the desired depth. Keep the number of added rounds the same all the way around.
- 10
Finish the lower edge with one round of rsc. With the right side facing, work rsc around the entire lower edge, including 3 rsc in the marked front ch-1 space so it stays a clean point; sl st to the first rsc and fasten off. Work with a relaxed hand so the edge does not pull the gusset upward.
- 11
Weave in all ends through several hdc columns, changing direction once before trimming. Wet-block the cowl flat with the front point centered, then let it dry completely. Do not stretch the neck circumference while blocking; only smooth the point so the gusset line lies centered.
| Size | Foundation / neck sts | Finished neck circumference | Gusset hdc after 11 rounds | Approx. yarn |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small | 80 | 20 in / 51 cm | 113 + ch-1 space | 180 yd / 165 m |
| Medium | 88 | 22 in / 56 cm | 121 + ch-1 space | 210 yd / 192 m |
| Large | 96 | 24 in / 61 cm | 129 + ch-1 space | 240 yd / 220 m |
Tips for success
- Use a non-stretchy marker at the front ch-1 space. A marker that slips out makes the center point the only difficult stitch to find again.
- If the neck fits but the point is too short, add gusset rounds. Do not add stitches to the foundation ring, because that changes the pull-on circumference.
- If the point leans, you likely placed the four gusset hdc into the stitch beside the ch-1 space. Frog back to the first misplaced increase; the error compounds on every round.
- For a softer drape, use a wool blend or acrylic at the stated gauge. For a firmer, more graphic point, use smooth cotton and avoid over-blocking.
Pattern at a glance
- Time to make
- Two relaxed evenings
- Skill level
- Easy
- Hook
- 4.0 mm (G/6)
- Yarn weight
- Light/DK (CYC 3)CYC standard
- Yardage
- About 180–240 yd / 165–220 m depending on size and point depth
- Gauge
- 16 hdc x 12 rounds = 4 in / 10 cm after wet-blocking
- Finished size
- Small: 20 in neck circumference, Medium: 22 in, Large: 24 in; medium point about 5 in deep after 11 gusset rounds
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make this crochet bandana cowl wider at the neck?
Yes. Add stitches to the foundation chain in multiples of 8, then place the front marker exactly halfway around the ring. Make a gauge swatch first; the cowl needs enough ease to pull over the head without becoming loose at the neck.
How do I make the bandana point longer?
Repeat the gusset increase round for more rounds. Each added round gives the point roughly one additional row of depth and adds 3 hdc to the lower circumference, so try it on after every second added round.
Why is my cowl point off-center?
The front marker must sit exactly opposite the back join, and it must move into the new ch-1 space after every gusset round. If it moves to an adjacent hdc, the increases travel diagonally instead of staying centered.
Can I use worsted yarn instead of DK?
You can, but make the swatch and select the foundation chain by measured circumference rather than the named size. A thicker yarn changes the neck fit and point depth; adjust the hook until the fabric is supple enough to pull on comfortably.
